Creating a line of shoes is not a simple job, not suitable for everyone. Especially if we talk about high quality handmade shoes, where the production process is complex.

In fact, behind each shoe there are many processing stages, from the creation of the model to hand finishing, which are all necessary to obtain a high quality final product. Each processing stage requires a certain amount of experience from the producer.

For this reason, when a brand decides to outsource the creation of its line of shoes, it is important to carefully select the manufacturer, making sure that the factory is able to carry out each processing stage and obviously uses high-quality raw materials.

But exactly what are these processing steps? Let’s see them together.

Shoe design

The creation of a handcrafted shoe starts with creative research, followed by analysis of current fashion trends, to create an original shoe design in line with market trends.

After having studied the market, the designers will create the models to be handled to the pattern makers, who will transform the idea into reality.

In detail, a paper pattern (or its digital CAD model) is created as the basis for the production of the shoe. The prototype will help the craftsmen to verify that there is no technical error, and if there is, the pattern will be modified until a perfect prototype is obtained.

Leather cutting

Once the model has been created, the leather cutting is the next and one of the most important steps in the creation of a handmade shoe. This phase requires skill, precision and attention to detail, because the quality and aesthetics of the shoe largely depend on the precision of the cutting of the materials.

In order to guarantee high durability to the final product, the leather used should be chosen with care, with an eye on quality, colour, texture and thickness.

The cutting of the leather should be done very carefully, following the pattern paper and taking into account any details or decorations that must be preserved. It is also important to optimize the cuts to reduce waste.

Checks are then carried out to ensure that there are no defects or imperfections.

Hemming

The hemming of handcrafted shoes is a crucial phase, which should be executed with care, using special machinery and traditional techniques. The edges of the vamp, i.e. the upper part of the shoe, are precisely cut and then folded inwards. Subsequently, we proceed with the sewing of all the pieces, which together with the lining, will make up the upper part of the shoe.

This process requires great manual dexterity and particular attention to detail, as the hemming should be flawless to ensure a high quality finish and a durable shoe over time.

Assembly of the upper

Subsequently, we proceed with the actual assembly of the shoe.

In this phase, the leather upper is heated in a steam oven, then passed through a press that shapes the toe to facilitate its assembly on the last. While on the plastic last, on which the upper will then be mounted, an assembly insole is spread.

To artfully assemble a shoe it is necessary to stretch the leather in the correct way: it takes years of experience to “feel” if the material is stretched at its best. If the leather is too tight, the shoe risks breaking during assembly, if instead it is loose, the shoe will not have the shape.

At the end, the upper is closed on the last.

Scratching the sole

In this phase the excess leather is removed to prepare the shoe for the process of attaching the sole. It is very important to follow the outlines of the sole to remove only the skin that obstructs the perfect attachment of the sole.

If the craftsman scratches the shoe outside the outline, he ends up damaging the upper. In this case the shoe does not pass quality control and should be produced anew.

Application of the sole

There are many techniques used for this complex process. The department is in fact divided into two production lines, based on the difficulty of the construction of the sole.

On the “simple” line, shoes are processed with glued soles, or sewn with the Blake technique with groove.
On the other “classic” line, the shoes with Blake stitching with hidden seams, Blake rapid and Goodyear soles are processed.

Finishing

The final phase in the creation of a handmade shoe is the finishing phase when the shoes are checked one by one to guarantee their quality and aesthetics.

During the finishing process, the shoes are cleaned, polished and varnished to enhance their beauty and protect them from wear. Depending on the type of leather and the desired effect, the shoe is brushed with different types of brushes.

Leather coloring

During manual coloring, the shoes are entrusted to the hands of expert craftsmen in various leather coloring techniques, a long and delicate process that requires experience and dexterity.

An artisan spends an average of three days coloring the leather, applying the dye and wax by hand through circular movements of the fingers, in order to allow the leather to dry after each application and to obtain an excellent result.

Fratelli Borgioli, historic Tuscan artisan brand of men’s footwear, also offers its customers the Private Label service. With the advice of the company’s product development team, it is in fact possible to create a collection of own-brand footwear with all the characteristics that have made Fratelli Borgioli a brand appreciated by international fashion houses and by all lovers of beauty.

In the recent years, Fratelli Borgioli has become the reference point for the most important high fashion brands which are looking for a shoe manufacturer in Tuscany capable of guaranteeing perfection, organisation, know-how and punctuality.

Fratelli Borgioli shoes are the result of a family tradition that began more than seventy years ago in an artisan workshop in the heart of the Florentine countryside, in La Stella di Vinci.

Each shoe designed by Fratelli Borgioli is a true artisan masterpiece. The tradition of Tuscan craftsmanship and technological innovation blend together to give life to a shoe that accompanies the wearer for a lifetime.

To find out which services we can offer to your brand CONTACT US.